An imperial craft
The word zardozi can thus be interpreted as sewing with gold strings. In the 12th century, this art was brought to India by Delhi’s first Turkish-Afghan sultans. This imperial craft, in fact, is known to have been present in India since the time of the Rig Veda (zari embroidery has been mentioned as adornment on attires of gods and goddesses), and was developed during the reign of Akbar, the Mughal emperor. During the rule of Aurangzeb, due to an increase in the price of zardozi-making material, this art declined.
Materials used
Myriad are the materials used in zardozi embroidery; they are as beautifully similar or as inventively dissimilar as zardozi itself. Stretching from salmaa (gold wires) and sitara (metal stars), wooden beads, pearl beads, glass beads, plastic coloured beads, sequins of various shapes, sizes and colours, shells, metallic wires, saadi, metallic bead stones, plastic stones, gold and silver metal threads, to precious and semi-precious stones; they all enhance the arty denouement, which is magnificent zardozi. Zardozi embroiderers sometimes even use silk threads in addition to copper wires polished with gold or silver.
Heavily ornamenting textiles and garments, this glittering thread work is also at times combined with dabka work. Metal wires made by pressing melted metal ingots through perforated steel sheets, and hammered to requisite fineness, are used primarily in this style. The plain wire used in this style is called badla, and when twined around a thread, it is called kasab, or kasav. Embroidery is completed before the garments are stitched.
Zardozi garments look grand and may weigh a lot. Zardozi work generally takes up to 10 days, and each piece is charged according to the design and material used.
Presenting effervescent images in gold and silver, and colourful hues, this picturesque embroidery is a beautiful artefact of the co-mingling of cultures, which make it even more magical, and seem to lure one into a panorama of art spread across fabric surfaces.
Zardozi’s class act can be attributed to its enigmatic elegance, elaborate intricacy, inherent beauty, regal appeal and breathtaking designs, which emerge from the hearts of the creators of zardozi.
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